Baume & Mercier, a Swiss watchmaker founded in 1830, has been shed by luxury titan Richemont, signaling that even deep heritage isn't enough to secure a place in top-tier portfolios, according to a Damiani Press Release. Damiani Group completed the acquisition of the brand from Richemont.
Luxury conglomerates expand, yet simultaneously shed historic brands that fail to meet aggressive growth targets. This tension defines the current market: portfolio growth balanced against focused efficiency.
The luxury market appears set for further consolidation. A sharper division will emerge between ultra-high-performing brands and those struggling to justify their place in major portfolios, potentially leading to more niche acquisitions.
The Deal: Who Acquired the Swiss Watchmaker?
- Richemont acquired Baume & Mercier in 1988, expanding its luxury watch portfolio, according to Richemont and the Damiani Group Announcement.
- Damiani Group, an Italian jewelry company known for high-end pieces, now makes its first significant foray into Swiss watch manufacturing, according to Industry Expert Interview.
- The acquisition terms remain undisclosed, according to Joint Press Release.
This transaction marks a strategic divestment for Richemont and an ambitious expansion for Damiani into the competitive Swiss watch market. Damiani clearly intends to diversify its luxury offerings.
Why Richemont Divested Baume & Mercier
Baume & Mercier's sales stagnated, lagging behind Richemont brands like Cartier and IWC, according to Luxury Watch Analyst Report. Chairman Johann Rupert prioritizes 'hard luxury' brands with strong growth potential, according to Financial Times Interview with Rupert. This strategy led Richemont to streamline its portfolio, divesting non-core assets to focus on top performers, according to Bloomberg Analysis. Baume & Mercier struggled to define its market position between accessible luxury and high horology, according to Watch Industry Forum Discussion.










